| As McDonald's
expanded nationwide, in the mid-1960s, it sought to cut labor costs,
reduce the number of suppliers, and ensure that its fries tasted the
same at every restaurant. McDonald's began switching to frozen
french fries in 1966 -- and few customers noticed the difference.
Nevertheless, the change had a profound effect on the nation's
agriculture and diet. A familiar food had been transformed into
a highly processed industrial commodity. McDonald's fries
now come from huge manufacturing plants that can peel, slice, cook,
and freeze two million pounds of potatoes
a day.
The rapid expansion of McDonald's and the popularity of its low-cost,
mass-produced fries changed the way Americans eat.
In 1960 Americans consumed an average of about eighty-one
pounds of fresh potatoes and four
pounds of frozen french fries.
In 2000 they consumed an average of about fifty
pounds of fresh potatoes and thirty
pounds of frozen fries.
Today McDonald's is the largest buyer
of potatoes in the United States.
The taste of McDonald's french fries played a crucial role in the
chain's success -- fries are much more profitable than hamburgers
-- and was long praised by customers, competitors, and even food
critics.
Their distinctive taste does not stem from the kind of potatoes
that McDonald's buys, the technology that processes them, or the
restaurant equipment that fries them: other chains use Russet Burbanks,
buy their french fries from the same large processing companies,
and have similar fryers in their restaurant kitchens.
The taste of a french fry is largely determined
by the cooking oil.
For decades McDonald's cooked its french fries in a mixture of
about seven percent cottonseed oil and 93 percent beef tallow. The
mixture gave the fries their unique flavor -- and more saturated
beef fat per ounce than a McDonald's hamburger.
In 1990, amid a barrage of criticism over the amount of cholesterol
in its fries, McDonald's switched to pure vegetable oil.
This presented the company with a challenge: how to make fries that
subtly taste like beef without cooking them in beef tallow. A look
at the ingredients in McDonald's french fries suggests how the problem
was solved.
Toward the end of the list is a seemingly innocuous yet oddly mysterious
phrase: "natural flavor." That ingredient helps
to explain not only why the fries taste so good but also why most
fast food -- indeed, most of the food Americans eat today -- tastes
the way it does.
Open your refrigerator, your freezer, your kitchen cupboards, and
look at the labels on your food. You'll find "natural flavor"
or "artificial flavor" in just about every list of ingredients.
The similarities between these two broad categories are far more
significant than the differences. Both are man-made additives
that give most processed food most of its taste.
People usually buy a food item the first time because of its packaging
or appearance. Taste usually determines whether they buy it again.
About 90 percent
of the money that Americans now spend on food goes to buy processed
food.
The canning, freezing, and dehydrating techniques used in processing
destroy most of food's flavor -- and so a vast industry has arisen
in the United States to make processed food palatable.
The flavor industry is highly secretive. Its leading companies
will not divulge the precise formulas of flavor compounds or the
identities of clients. The secrecy is deemed essential for protecting
the reputations of beloved brands.
The fast-food chains, understandably, would like the public to
believe that the flavors of the food they sell somehow originate
in their restaurant kitchens, not in distant factories run by other
firms. A McDonald's french fry is one of countless foods whose flavor
is just a component in a complex manufacturing process. The
look and the taste of what we eat now are frequently deceiving --
by design.
A person's food preferences, like his or her personality, are formed
during the first few years of life, through a process of socialization.
Babies innately prefer sweet tastes and reject bitter ones; toddlers
can learn to enjoy hot and spicy food, bland health food, or fast
food, depending on what the people around them eat.
The human sense of smell is still not fully understood. It is greatly
affected by psychological factors and expectations. The mind focuses
intently on some of the aromas that surround us and filters out
the overwhelming majority.
People can grow accustomed to bad smells or good smells; they stop
noticing what once seemed overpowering. Aroma and memory are somehow
inextricably linked. A smell can suddenly evoke a long-forgotten
moment.
The flavors of childhood foods seem to leave an indelible mark,
and adults often return to them, without always knowing why. These
"comfort foods" become a source of pleasure and reassurance
-- a fact that fast-food chains use to their advantage. Childhood
memories of Happy Meals, which come with french fries, can translate
into frequent adult visits to McDonald's.
On average, Americans now eat about four
servings of french fries every week.
The Atlantic
Monthly; January 2001; Why McDonald's Fries Taste So Good -
01.01; Volume 287, No. 1; page 50-56
|