The popularity of raw food is rising but the temperature in the kitchen is not.

In fact, the food being prepared at trendy raw food restaurants never enters an oven, touches a pan or sits on a grill. It is all served raw, meaning it will not be exposed to more than 110 or 115 degrees.

According to one restaurant owner, the primary method of "cooking" is dehydration.

Those that eat raw food all the time subscribe to the "healthy food is living food" concept. They chose organic, unprocessed and uncooked food. "Raw foodists," as they call themselves, believe high temperatures attack a food's enzymes and minimize its nutritional value.

Vegans -- who abstain from animal and dairy products -- are some of the most devout followers of the raw food religion. And like many religions, this way of eating has been around a long time.

However, this rebirth recently has extended beyond big cities and stylish places. Raw food "cookbooks" are on the shelf at bookstores around the corner and offer raw versions of American favorites, such as potpie. Famous raw food advocates and authors preach to large crowds from Washington to Wichita.

One author, who has been traveling to different states speaking about the benefits of raw foods for nearly a decade, at one point only knew of two raw food restaurants. Now www.rawfoodinfo.com lists more than 60, offering a variety of choices, from casual smoothie shops to a full formal dining experience.

Many converts to the raw religion testify to the diet's weight-dropping and energy-popping results. Some raw foodists claim they need less sleep, they never get sick and that conditions, such as asthma or allergies, have disappeared. Some that may have "sinned" by snacking on forbidden food say they felt the negative effects of the food.

Despite compelling comments, nutritionists are not sold on the concept. They agree that raw nuts and vegetables are good components of a diet but are not a complete diet alone. One nutrition expert agreed that enzymes are compromised when food is cooked. However, the body uses its own enzymes for digestion and does not need others. Experts pointed out that some foods, including beans, are more nutritious when heated. They also say many of the raw foodists' claims of improved immune systems and higher energy are not reasonable and cannot be easily proven.

Raw food followers may need their extra energy to prepare the uncooked meals. Creating pasta from zucchini or dehydrating fruits can take time. Some raw specialties can take days to prepare.

Using blenders, food processors and a dash of culinary magic, raw food chefs often recreate tastes of popular foods like burgers, chili and ice cream. Common ingredients for such recipes are nuts, vegetables, seeds, herbs and spices. Seeds and nuts also add texture and protein to the dishes. Coconuts play a large role too.

While raw dishes' menu names and tastes might be similar to common cooked foods, raw creations have different textures. Chefs consider this part of the raw experience.

USA Today August 30, 2004