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The phytonutrients in foods that have been found to be so beneficial
to health are responsible in large part for the "bad"
taste of many of the foods high in these important nutrients, a
new research review from the University of Washington (UW) reports.
Despite the fact that these phytonutrients
have been associated with cancer prevention and other health benefits,
the food industry has devoted decades of work to removing them,
due to the fact that these trace chemicals taste bitter, acrid or
astringent. They achieve this through methods such as selective
breeding and a variety of debittering processes.
Researchers note that when it comes to phytonutrients, the
demands of good taste and good health may be wholly incompatible.
"Many people don't like to eat vegetables - and the feeling
is mutual," Dr. Adam Drewnowski, director of the UW Nutritional
Sciences Program said. "Plants protect themselves against being
eaten by secreting natural pesticides and other bitter-tasting toxins.
In small amounts, the phenols, flavanoids, isoflavones and other
chemicals are proving to be good for us."
Unfortunately, a dislike of these flavors has been ingrained in
most people by nature. Humans and other
animals have long associated bitter or sour flavors with spoiled
or poisonous food. That is why food manufacturers routinely
remove these compounds from plant foods through selective breeding
and a variety of debittering processes.
The solution, he says, is in using the wisdom found in Mediterranean
cuisine, where for generations, cooks have coped with bitter vegetables
by seasoning them lightly with salt and dashes of olive oil. The
oil in particular blunts the bitter flavors of phytonutrients.
Debittering foods, either chemically during processing, or by breeding
bitterness out of such things as broccoli and zucchini, has been
a focal point of the industry for decades. Unfortunately, this
focus on taste may be coming at the expense of our health.
American Journal of Clinical
Nutrition, December 2000; 72, 1424-1435 and University
Of Washington
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